“That’s what made it art, really,” Littman said, pointing out that the chef was challenging preconceived notions in the way that great artists always do. He was struck not only by the immense technicality of the cooking and the wit behind many of the chef’s sensory tricks-like a nutmeg-sprinkled ostrich “eggshell” made of flash-frozen gorgonzola that had to be manually cracked open and consumed using only your fingers in 18 seconds before it puddled into oblivion-but also by Adrià’s ability to upend diners’ expectations. “It wasn’t necessarily the best tasting, but it was the most exciting and profound dining experience I had ever had,” he told me by phone. His Michelin-starred restaurant elBulli became an international foodie destination that revolutionized the concept of eating with an avant-garde tasting menu of some 40 dishes.īrett Littman, the executive director of The Drawing Center in New York City, had a memorable meal there with his wife in 2010. Ferran Adrià is one of the world’s most venerated culinary pioneers, a molecular gastronomist who used sophisticated cooking techniques and a multisensory approach to reinvent Spanish cuisine.
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